Dermatologists swear by it, consumers clamor for it. Now, Kenvue has confirmed it. Stabilized retinol at 0.1% in skincare formulas is effective and tolerable. Kenvue published its findings in the April issue of Journal of Drugs in Dermatology. The new clinical assessment is the largest to be published in scientific literature on the ingredient, according to the company. Retinol is the key active ingredient in a number of Kenvue formulas, including Neutrogena in the US, Europe and China, and Dr.Ci:Labo in Japan and China. Kenvue promoted the study during last month’s annual meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology. The AAD event attracted thousands of dermatologists to San Diego, many of whom stopped by the Kenvue stand to learn more about the study, according to Menas Kizoulis, senior director of global scientific engagement, Kenvue.

“Attendance at the annual meeting was very high, it reminded me of pre-covid levels,” recalled Kizoulis. “There was a high level of energy in San Diego and the dermatologists were very engaged.”

The paper may be new, Kenvue isn’t a retinol neophyte. The company launched the first prescription retinoid in 1971. It was also the first to perfect retinol stabilization and filed its first retinol patent in 1990.

No. 1 with Dermatologists

“Retinol is the No. 1 dermatologist-recommended anti-aging cosmetic ingredient available over-the-counter (OTC) and is sought after by consumers. But not all retinol products are created equal,” insisted Kizoulis. “This ingredient is hard to formulate and stabilize, but Kenvue has specific expertise here with over 30 years’ experience formulating and patenting retinol products. This study shows how effective, well-formulated, stabilized bioactive retinol formulations drive clinical skin health benefits.”

The impetus for this research began two years ago, when Kenvue convened a dermatologist advisory board. The board recognized there was plenty of data surrounding retinol, but wanted confirmation surrounding the efficacy and tolerability of the ingredient. Kenvue did just that. Researcher poured over six studies involving more than 200 subjects. Kizoulis called it one of the largest studies of its kind.

Extensive Retinol Studies

Specifically, Kenvue’s data analysis included six vehicle-controlled studies of 0.1% stabilized bioactive retinol in women 30 years of age or older who had mild to moderate signs of photodamage from ultraviolet light. Across all the studies, using a numerical scale, a single dermatologist investigator assessed overall facial photodamage and site-specific photodamage such as forehead wrinkles, crow’s feet and dark spots at baseline and at weeks four, eight and 12. Tolerability was also assessed. A total of 237 participants received daily treatment with retinol while 234 received vehicle alone.

Researchers found that retinol induced greater improvements from baseline in all signs of photoaging compared with vehicle, with changes evident as early as week four and continuing through week 12. Among the few participants who experienced irritation, all events were mild to moderate and transient, and the authors concluded retinol and its vehicle were both well tolerated through 12 weeks, with no severe signs of irritation.

“This vehicle-controlled analysis provides compelling new evidence that this ingredient effectively reduces the signs of skin aging without irritation,” said lead author on the study Patricia K. Farris, MD, MS, FAAD4, a clinical associate professor in the Department of Dermatology at Tulane University School of Medicine and practicing dermatologist in Louisiana. “These findings provide additional support for the use of products including the Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair line, which target signs of aging with 0.1% stabilized bioactive retinol.”

Solving Stability Problems

Like other retinoids, retinol is susceptible to oxygen and light. Kenvue stabilized the material and developed a controlled-release system to minimize irritation and maximize efficacy at .1% use levels.

“We’re engaging with dermatologists to convey that not all retinols are created equal,” noted Kizoulis. “They’ve been very receptive to the study.”

For Kenvue’s part, this publication wasn’t all that surprising, as it was a pooled analysis of previous studies. Kizoulis noted that there was improvement across all parameters, including fine lines, wrinkles, undereye, tone and hyperpigmentation.

“(The study) reaffirms retinol as the go-to ingredient for dermatologists to recommend to their patients,” explained Kizoulis. “It also helps further educate healthcare providers about the different levels of retinols. When you create the right formula, you get all the benefits without the irritation.”

Due to retinol’s inherent instability, Kizoulis said there is a high degree of variability when comparing retinol-based consumer products. Kenvue relies on emollients to slowly release retinoid. That release is dictated by the polarity of the emollients, a system patented by Kenvue. Moreover, the well-formulated retinol-based products continue to perform.

“A common misperception is that anti-aging product efficacy plateaus,” noted Kizoulis. “But in our hands, using well-formulated retinol, we didn’t see a plateau in efficacy, but a steady rise in efficacy.”

Peptide and Antioxidant Research

Even as it educates health care professionals about the benefits of applying well-formulated, retinol-based products, Kenvue researchers are putting the finishing touches on a research paper demonstrating the efficacy of peptides on early signs of aging. And, still in its early stage, is research on the mechanisms of action regarding antioxidants.

“We want to understand the effects of free radicals on different age groups, as well as the impact of pollution; this space is very dynamic,” explained Kizoulis. “But there is always a place for the tried-and-true. Retinol is a core solution to address most photoaging needs. In the future, there may be others.”